Archive for January, 2022

SAVOR

January 25, 2022

Working nearly a mile up Hardesty Trail, I was amazed that I had fallen in the mud only once, a  slow motion deconstruction of my vertical posture arrested by a nearby bank, and which nobody else fortunately saw. The Stihl Brusher was working fine, the trail was cleared of branches by others in front of me, and it was being raked behind me. There were three brushers at work here and a fourth 3 miles up nearby Eagle’s Rest Trail.  I had a double layer of ear plugs, and when I couldn’t hear myself or others talk, I figured I was well protected.

Hardesty gets a lot of traffic, especially from mountain bikes. Sword ferns and Salal grow over the trail and need to be trimmed. We were doing a purported 5-year trim, but I suspect in 2 years it will need to be redone.

The Crew working Hardesty, January 2022

The brusher quickly shut down. Stihl brushers don’t give any warning when they are low on gas. On the other hand, nobody who does much brushing ever complains when they have to stop. The harness helps, but brushing is hard on the upper back. I gassed up and took a break. What a beautiful woods we were in. The darkness of the stratiform rain had lessened, replaced by mist, and the trees stood like tall sentinels. There are huge trees on Hardesty, three century old ones, already big when the country was born, somehow surviving storms, fire, and saws, although a few didn’t survive last summer’s small 20 acre fire just up the trail. Others had blackened bark but would do fine. The first hike I took up here in 2014, my 19th in Oregon, I said that protecting just one of those big trees would be a good legacy. I had hoped we might make the area wilderness, but there is too much recreational mountain biking and it is too close to main roads, although both the Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Washington, and Menagerie wildernesses abut US 20.

The well-known Oregon trail author William Sullivan discusses Hardesty briefly at the end of his book on the Middle Cascades, barely mentioning it in the Mt. June section with the comment, regarding lack of views on Hardesty, “These hikers obviously don’t know about Mt. June.” I found that quotation in my once-got-it-soaking-wet edition (I have two later editions), the day I hiked Obsidian loop in a heavy November rain seven years ago with no pack cover. This is because while Hardesty trailhead is right off Highway 58, easy to access, climbs a full vertical kilometer to the summit, there are no views at the summit. In the few years I have climbed Hardesty, regrowth has taken away what was at best a limited view of South Sister. If you want high mountain or ocean views, yes, go elsewhere. If you want to get into shape in one day for summer hiking, on the other hand, this is your trail—11 miles round trip with a lot of elevation gain. Drop down Eula Ridge trail near the top for 4 miles, and take the flatter South Willamette, still with a thousand feet cumulative vertical to connect back to Hardesty, and it is a nice 14 mile loop. Trail runners race the Hardesty Hardcore loop, which one has do under 4 hours to be considered a finisher. I hiked it once in four and a half, figured I could probably find thirty minutes somewhere to take off, but then asked myself why I would want to do that.  I never did the race. 

One November, I led a Club hike to Hardesty, over on the Sawtooth Trail to Mt. June and back to Hardesty, an 18 miler with about 5600 feet of elevation gain–“the junk food hike.”  I got to the half way point at Mt. June—no views because of fog—was cramping, probably pre-bonk stage, and as hike leader, l was leading from the back, not letting anybody know that there was no other spot in the group I could lead from at that moment.  I simply could not go any faster. Fortunately, one guy gave away a pack of Cheet-Os at lunch, nutritionally awful, with the salt and the corn syrup, but oh so good for the bonks, and I somehow got my body back to the car. 

Hardesty was only my second time in the Willamette National Forest. I liked the wetness of the first part of the trail, huge trees, constant climbing and the feeling of accomplishment when I reached the concrete ruins at the top. There are some nice views on the way up; one just has to look out and down at Eagles Rest or Lookout Reservoir below.  Hardesty Lookout itself was removed in 1968; the trail has existed since 1910. I learned just recently the parking area was once an informal resting spot for truckers and full of trash. Nice the world changes for the good occasionally.

View of Lookout Point Reservoir from upper Hardesty trail, June 2014

Lunch time for the Crew. As I turned off the brusher, Louise, retired from 32 years in the Forest Service and a newcomer to the group, commented how pretty the trail was. It is. I don’t hear that said much by the Crew, in part while I think we know it, perhaps we forget it in the press of bucking out another log, digging a drain for a trail, or moving rocks. Hardesty is pretty. I hadn’t even reached the section of the huge trees. I like this place.  I picked a log to sit on, then as I usually do at lunch, lay down while I ate in order to be flat and to look up for a change. I don’t look up enough in the forest, although both bucking big logs and eating lunches on the trail are rapidly curing me of that oversight, the first for safety and the second for comfort. I savor my food, my reclining, and my view. The dictionary defines savor as to enjoy something completely, but to me, savor speaks to the second level: we are enjoying the fact that we are enjoying, acknowledging at that moment, not later, that we are happy, a higher level of happiness as well, that we sometimes miss. When we savor, we are grateful for this exceptional moment and good fortune that we are alive, know we are alive, glad we are, savoring life itself, recognizing and appreciating our current feelings right now, not taking them for granted.

Tiger Lilies in spring, near Hardesty summit, June 2020

TRAIL FINDING…LOSING…FINDING…

January 18, 2022

About the fourth time I got off trail on the way to Arrowhead Lake, the trail I was to be on—or given the snow—over, the Pacific Crest Trail, was according to my Gaia app about 200 feet to my right and at least 5 feet below me.  Actually, given the 700 feet elevation gain I had, maybe 6 feet below me.

This was my third time on snowshoes this year, the first two having been from my house into Alton Baker park for a couple of miles, right after we had 6 inches of snow, good to see after such a hot, dry year.

Seasonal pond in Alton Baker Park

I keep telling people summer is overrated, and I think finally a few more now believe me. I can always put on warmer clothes; there is a limit to how much I can take off.  Still, I hear talk about every day there is a little more light, and soon there will be the “blissful days of summer.”  Amazingly, that is still said, forgetting all the days I wear an N95 for smoke, check the nifc.gov daily for fire news, carry my portable air quality indicator, and put up with record heat. The global map for 2021 temperatures shows red blotches all over the world like a bad rash for the top 1,5 and 10 years of warmth. There is not one single blue blotch for cold. 

My second snowshoe was into town to my local Dutch Brothers, where I am still recognized. I bought a decaf white chocolate mocha for only a dollar, so I tipped the barista two, read the Eugene Weekly on the bench, and then continued in a 4.5 mile loop back by Autzen Stadium, and then directly through the park—on no path at all— by a couple of seasonal ponds I had never known were there, and back home. At least I got on snowshoes before the beginning of the year, but I hadn’t yet been up in the mountains.

The day I went up to Gold Lake Sno-Park, 70 miles southeast and a mile up from home, it was 25 and clear at the trailhead when I arrived. I headed south towards Bechtel Shelter, one of two in the park on the south side of Highway 58. Surprisingly, I missed the turn for the usual way I go to the shelter, but that was minor, since the snow covered road-trail led by the shelter as well and climbed more gradually. The snow was hard, and I stayed on top where snowshoe tracks from the day before were oval holes punched below to green branches. 

Bechtel Shelter, 3-sided.

I stopped briefly at Bechtel, noting that unlike past years where I could walk right in from ground level, I now had to go down three feet to go inside, but I wasn’t interested in stopping  there. I climbed back to the road and was happy to see ski tracks head south towards Midnight Lake, about three-quarters of a mile, and Arrowhead Lake, a mile and a half further. 

I had been to Arrowhead twice before, found it pretty, quiet, and a good hike on snowshoes. I was going to go again last March, but the vaccination drive occupied my time, and I never did make it back out there.  

About 100 yards past the Midnight Lake turnoff the ski tracks I was following just stopped. I was now on my own, looking for a slight depression in front of me that showed where the PCT was.  There are blue markers on snowshoe trails in the Sno-Park, but in the Diamond Peak wilderness, nothing is marked. I figured I could remember part of the trail, and the track I had mapped on Gaia two years ago would guide me if I couldn’t. In winter woods many open gaps look like trails, and it is easy to follow them until they suddenly stop. That’s why we mark them with blue diamonds and have Sno-Parks. Within a few minutes, I was off trail. 

First thing I did was admit it. Surprisingly as that may seem, it helps, because it avoids the “let’s go a little further and see,”approach, trying to make trails out of open space that isn’t a trail. I’ve done that with “moving islands” in the Boundary Waters so they could fit the map; I thought it was just fine that there was a road nearby on the Appalachian Trail in North Carolina, even when there shouldn’t have been, and other foolishness.  I stopped and looked at the app.  Gaia showed the trail to my right, so I moved right. I did this twice and still hadn’t closed the gap much, and then I remembered I have a tendency to go 45 degrees right when I want to go 90 degrees right.  Right means hard right, the computer term of which is “force quit.”  Once I force quit and did a right face-forward march I found the trail and was again fine for maybe a half mile, before I again realized again I wasn’t on it.  Two minutes later, I was on trail, repeating that a couple more times. I had hoped to get to Arrowhead Lake for an early lunch, and I began to think I might turn around, and retrace my steps, but I the trail became easier to see, then only three-tenths of a mile from Arrowhead, so I kept going.  At least in the winter, if it is not actively snowing, I can always easily backtrack. I finally was close enough to see a gap to my right, and 50 yards late reached the path going to the lake. 

Arrowhead is well named, with the point of the arrow headed towards the PCT, and the base to the northwest.  I had eaten lunch out on the lake once before; this time I thought about trying to go across the lake in bright sunshine.  It had been cold for a long time in the high country, so while I ventured out slowly, first umping up and down, then pushing my poles in hard, there was no cracking of ice and indeed plain quiet. Snow and trees muffle sound, and nobody was out there.  I knew why I had come back. I had lunch on a shoreline where I could lean up on the bank and look at my footprints coming across, the PCT a little further away, blue sky above me. I had had my rain jacket off for the last 2 hours, but I know at lunch I would cool off and put it on right away. Savor is the right word to describe the actual enjoyment of enjoying something. 

While eating, I thought about what I did last year on the return trip when I headed over to Eagle’s Overlook and then up and over Diamond Peak View back to the car.  But that was another 7 miles, and while I might be able to do it, I doubted I would enjoy the effort. I certainly would not savor it.

Big decision having been made for the day, I was surprised the “far off” shore took me only about 5 minutes on snowshoes. The other two times I had been here, it seemed too far to go. I could probably walk around the lake in a half hour. Maybe next time I will do just that.  In the meantime, I would return almost the way I came. It’s always interesting to see where I got off trail and ask myself how I did that.

“Are you going out the way you came in?” we once asked a pair of travelers in the Boundary Waters, who had told us earlier of the difficulty in getting to Kahshahapiwi Lake, a beautiful place but reachable only with a lot of work on long, muddy, wet, poorly marked portages. There were six entries, and I had been in on five of them, not doing the portage that was listed as, “Avoid at all costs.”

No,” he replied. “We’re going out the way YOU came in.”

SPEWING NONSENSE

January 12, 2022

I was “stuck” with the greeter role at the vaccination clinic, meaning I stood at the entrance, greeted people, told them they needed a second mask, unless they were wearing an N95 or a KN95, then sent them to the registration desk. Sometimes, I got to pick my job, otherwise, I go where assigned. But any volunteer job deserves to be done well.

I am best at looking at a VAR—Vaccine Administration Record—asking the patient to confirm date of birth with the record and their vaccination card, note the usual two prior vaccines dates (occasionally one, rarely none these days), check that with the VAR, make sure the VAR is legible, write in below the date of the booster or first/second shot, make sure the signature is present, with no comments about “duress,” which will require a new form to be filled out, the yes/no questions have been answered and the yes addressed, if I think they need addressing.  

I then say “Moderna-Moderna-Moderna” or “Pfizer-Pfizer-Pfizer” or whatever their three shots consisted of, and tell them they are ready to move to the vaccinator. It takes me less than a minute. I am a mis-matcher, meaning I tend to find what is out of place, what doesn’t fit, rather than what fits. I’ve probably dealt with upwards of three thousand people by now, and I occasionally rewrite the name, change a date, and very rarely make them a new card.  I am slow to grasp new concepts, but once I have them, I hang on to them and get good at doing them.

At the door, there isn’t nearly as much to do. The days of a crowd at the door with different appointment times, walk-ins, and other issues that had to be addressed are no more. But there are still other issues, like one guy’s saying, after I handed him a mask to put on, “the next thing they will require is to shrink wrap my body.”

I wanted to say, “No, only your head.”  As he walked in, I did reply that the omicron variant had an R almost as bad as measles, adding, “for those of us who have had measles and know what being real sick means.” I remember the dark room I was in back in 1956 when I was ill with it. 

In the early afternoon, a tall man accompanied his client, whatever that meant, who was getting his Moderna booster. The tall person, probably late 20s, looked at me and said, “Why are you spewing this nonsense?”

At first I thought he was kidding, but he wasn’t.  He repeated himself. I told him that a second mask was the rule, and he interrupted:

“So, are you in the medical field?”  Bad question.

“Why yes, I am a retired physician.”  Time for him to be taken aback.

“What specialty?”  The guy didn’t quit.

“Neurology.”  I then looked up at the next couple of people who were coming to the door.

“Why are you spewing such nonsense?” I let that one go. Ben Franklin said, “a fanatic is a person who won’t change his mind and won’t change the subject.” My father told me, “Don’t get into a pissing contest with a skunk.”

That encounter is why when my wife worked as greeter the next day, she had a radio for security. We are volunteers and work where we are told, but we shouldn’t have to put up with angry frustrated people who don’t like the pandemic, don’t like masks, shots, rules or regulations, without easy access to security, should we feel threatened. It is part of our job to try to help, but we are not there to get into arguments with those who don’t believe in Covid, masks, vaccines, or that the sun rises because the Earth is turning. I am there to help people get what they came for. My job additionally is to make the experience as good as possible by being friendly, helpful, efficient, and what I try to do every day, problem solve and make their vaccination happen if it is at all possible and legal. I am very pleased that I have discovered several who needed a full shot of Moderna rather than the half shot booster, because they were immunosuppressed and it hadn’t been noticed before they came to me.  If one asks me what booster they should have, I tell them it is their choice, not mine. The mRNA vaccines are really supposed to be a three shot regimen.  If, however, I say to one who is getting their third Moderna that I had three Moderna shots, they often ask me what the third was like. I tell them. The second knocked me flat 24 hours later, and after the third, I waited for the shoe to drop, and it never did. They appreciate hearing that.

Maybe three or four times, I get into a conversation with someone, should I have time. One man brought his bicycle wheel into the clinic, and we talked about cycling. A car from Colorado with USMC on the plates turned out to be a delightful couple who met in the service. There are usually one or two people I see a day whom I think I would enjoy knowing them outside the clinic. I’ve seen a state representative, the son of a prominent person in town, three members of the Crew, a wife of another, three neighbors, and a few members of the Club.  A county supervisor came by, profusely thanking us.

I told one of the vaccinators about my experience as the purported spewer of nonsense. He told me that in one place in the country, someone came in and started throwing punches, sending a person to the hospital. I told him I have worried about other things much worse, and everybody knows what I am talking about. This is America, after all. I try not to think about those other things.

The week after next, Oregon Health Authority takes over, and the public health group will be doing testing. I’m not sure if I will stay for that.  There is a significant risk with a highly infectious virus even with double masking, for those who come to test are far more likely to be infected. I said I would stay for “the duration,” and nearly a year and 74 clinics later, the duration appears to have arrived.