Archive for the ‘MY WRITING’ Category

HITTING ROUGH PATCHES, AND FINDING SMOOTH WATER LATER….

August 27, 2013

“Hey, Rick, good to see you!”

I was at the reunion celebrating 100 years of Camp Pathfinder’s existence, where I learned to canoe trip in the ‘60s, and saw a familiar name tag near me.  I found the face vaguely familiar, as much as a face one hasn’t seen for 46 years can be familiar.

Rick (not his real name) turned and said hi, without nearly the surprise I had.  I told him the college I was fairly certain he had gone to (correct), and reminded him that I stayed at his house on a trip from the camp back to Rochester, New York, to accompany the campers back to the camp in central Ontario the next day.  I even got his street right, remarkable, considering I had not visited Rochester in 45 years.  I then asked what he was doing.

“Teaching math.  And I have authored five textbooks.  Good to see you again after the last reunion.  What do you think of the place?”

I had never been to a reunion.  We had not seen each other in 46 years.  I have taught math, and I certainly can subtract 1967 from 2013.  I haven’t authored much of anything, other than a few articles in several different fields, like neurology, Navy medicine, wilderness.  I certainly haven’t authored any textbooks.

I replied: “The things that changed needed to, and the things that didn’t need to change are the same.”  Rick liked that line, saying that was exactly what he was going to talk about at the “Council Meeting” the next day, where we would all be.  He then saw somebody else and left me, without another word.

I had known Rick really, really well at Pathfinder.  I had worked with him in the camp office, when I wasn’t out canoe tripping, which half the time I was.  I was–in a word–bummed.  I saw him several more times at the reunion, always with a lot of people near him, for he was a prominent person in the camp and a major “player” at the reunion.  I made it a point, however, not to initiate any further conversations.

I’m shy; while at times I can force myself to talk to strangers, if they reply the way Rick did, I shut down.  To an extrovert, that is no big deal; to me, I have put myself on the line and failed badly. I wish I could easily change this behavior, but it has been exceedingly difficult to do so.  I tried to tell myself that probably Rick had a lot of other things on his mind, but I was bummed.  I had no desire then to look for another name tag with a familiar name. Maybe I would the next day. Frankly, I was ready then to leave the reunion.

Instead, later that evening I sat outside the kitchen, away from the many gatherings, next to a couple, enjoying the coolness and the beauty of sunset over Source Lake, which I had not seen for nearly half a century.

“Venus is setting,” I commented, half to the couple, half to the sky.  It is how I start conversations.  If I can teach or get into my comfort zone, I open up.

The woman was interested in my comment, found Venus, and her husband looked, too.  They were from Brooklyn, where seeing stars or planets is often impossible.  Above Venus, I showed them Arcturus; overhead, the Summer Triangle, in the south, Antares.

“Let’s go down on the kitchen dock,” I suggested.  It was a clear, pleasant night.

With the wider view afforded by the dock, I showed them Cygnus the Swan, the Northern Cross, with bright Deneb at one end and dimmer Albireo at the other. With a telescope, I told them Albireo is one of the most beautiful double stars in the sky.

I pointed out the Big Dipper, showing them how it could be used as a clock, running counterclockwise around Polaris every day.  Using the Big Dipper, one can tell time at night, which fascinated them. I showed them Polaris, using my outstretched fists to show our latitude of 45 degrees.  In two minutes, they just had learned how to tell the time and latitude without anything more than their eyes and hands.  That’s heady stuff.

We turned to the south to view Scorpius, the head, Antares, and the tail.  The whole constellation appeared before us, barely clearing the quiet boreal forest across the now lovely, dead calm lake.  I told them how my wife and I once saw Orion rise over a calm lake late one night, perfectly reflected in the water.

It was late, and while the parties were occurring all over the island, I was tired.  As we walked back to where we had been sitting, I mentioned that they could always see the Moon from Brooklyn, and if they started following the Moon’s cycle, they would learn a lot.  The Moon is essential in both the Jewish and Islamic calendars.  If they used the bright stars like Vega, Altair and Deneb like Broadway, Madison Avenue, and Wall Street, they could learn to find their way to the lesser known areas in the sky.  It isn’t difficult, and I suspect perhaps this couple will.  I wrote an astronomy column for a newspaper for two decades without any formal astronomy background.  It takes rocket science to go to the stars, but not to learn them.

I have neither written a textbook, let alone five, nor changed thousands of schoolchildren.  I was not speaking to three hundred people at a reunion; I was only showing the sky to two young adults from Brooklyn.

But that night I like to think I changed a couple of lives. If I didn’t, I certainly changed the course my evening had been taking.  I didn’t whistle when I went to bed, but I felt a lot better about myself.  The reunion would turn out fine, Rick had just been a small rock in the water that my canoe hit.  I was again back on calm water, paddling ahead strongly.

Wilderness and a clear night sky are a wonderful tonic for the blues.

Day trip in Algonquin Park, on Little Island Lake. I camped on this very spot 50 years ago. I am back right.

Back from a paddle around the island….and of course a little more. These red canoes are hand made, still wood and canvas, and weigh about 41 kg (90 lb). On the day trip, I carried it 1400 meters without stopping. To still be able to do that was one of the high points of the trip. My shoulders hurt for several days after.  Notice the red neckerchief. That is the sign of a head man.  I earned that, and I was not the only one at the reunion who wore one.

Loon and chick, Source Lake, Algonquin Park.

COMING HOME AT LAST

August 27, 2013

When the plane touched down in Rochester, New York, where I spent my childhood, I expected I would view the city with considerable interest, since I had not been back for 45 years.  I didn’t expect that my immediate view would be blurred, because I was immediately teary-eyed.  That surprised me, for while I certainly cry, I usually have some warning.  I deplaned, telling both the flight attendant and the pilot that this was my first time here in 45 years.  They smiled.  I walked through the airport, far, far different from the last time I had been here, arriving at the rental car counter.  As I was getting checked in, I told the young man it was my first visit here since 1968.

“Welcome home,” he said.

I lost it.  No, it wasn’t just teary-eyed, I started crying, the kind of crying where you simply cannot talk and your face is soaked.  It didn’t last long, but the emotion caught me totally by surprise.  As I write this, I am teary.

I lived in Rochester from shortly after my birth in Berkeley, California, until 1963, when I left, to finish my last three years of high school in Wilmington, Delaware.  Other than working a summer at Eastman Kodak in 1968, where I hardly ever explored, I had not set foot in the city, or even New York, for that matter.  I finished high school in Wilmington, and I had a lot more friends there, but when I returned to Wilmington 42 years later, I did not have those emotions.  I was curious, but I did not cry.

Driving out of town, for that evening, I wanted to see our summer place on the Finger Lakes, I saw names I had not thought about for years–5 and 20 (a well known road my pediatrician told my mother I should play on, which would solve some of her problems), Rush, Henrietta, Conesus, Canandaigua, Lima, Livonia, and Honeoye, the last the lake where we had our cottage.  I was about 6 miles from Honeoye before anything looked familiar.  Even West Lake Road was different.  The numbering system had changed, and only the fact that I went past the cemetery on my right told me I was on the right road.  “California Ranch,” a peninsula, was now “Ranch Road.”  I went by “Poplar Road”, which I remembered immediately as being the last road before the one to our cottage.

Had you asked me any time in the last 40 years where Poplar Road was, I would not have been able to answer.  But I knew it immediately when I saw it.

The cottage was basically the same, but the trees, the new cottages, the whole area was different.  The owner was kind enough to let me in, and I was standing in a room where my feet had trod when I was a young boy, not an old man.

That evening, on the dinner menu, “Texas hot dogs” were advertised.  I hadn’t heard the term in decades.  Rochester is home to red and white hot dogs.  I can still hear the waiters at “Don and Bob’s”, which now exists at Sea Breeze: “Two texas, three white!”  When we left Rochester, that was the end of white hot dogs and Genesee Beer.

The next several days, I visited Cleveland to see my 49th national park, and drove around Lake Ontario to a camp reunion and to visit a good friend in Ottawa. This was a true “Remembrance Trip.” I returned to Rochester from the east, drove down Elmwood Avenue, and again saw street names I hadn’t thought of in decades.  I arrived at 12 Corners, immediately recognized it and the three schools I had attended through the 9th grade.  I was speechless, but I was done with the tears.  I saw the schools, turned down the street I lived on, and saw the house where I grew up.  It looked good.  So did the window from my room.  I looked at the sidewalk and the driveway, where a half century earlier, even almost two-thirds of a century earlier, my feet walked.  It was good.  I needed to see my house.  I was through with the tears now.

I drove to the hotel near the airport, on Chili, which I immediately knew was pronounced CHI lie, not CHILL e, where I was flying out the next day.  I told the counter clerks that it was my first time back in 45 years.  They smiled.  I tried to say that it was the first time I had seen my house and my school in a half century, but I couldn’t speak.

I started to cry.  I absolutely could not get a word out for five minutes.  They smiled and nodded.  I was astounded at my emotions.  For years, I always considered a home town is where somebody currently lives.  That is, after all, literally your home town.

But I had been wrong the whole time.  I have a hometown.  It was so obvious that it perhaps never occurred to me.  It was, and always will be, Rochester, New York.  Had I listened to my heart and eyes, I never would have doubted it.  The brain is smart, but the heart and eyes know things the brain can’t understand.  The mind of the child takes in things that the adult brain simply can’t comprehend.  My heart and eyes knew I was home.

I took the trip, because I wanted to see where I grew up one more time.  I did that.

I just didn’t know that after all these years, I was finally going home, and how important this would be.  I went to school in Rochester for many years.  I learned a great deal in Rochester.  But this beautiful city had one more lesson to teach me, 45 years later.

 

CUYAHOGA VALLEY NATIONAL PARK

August 21, 2013

Cuyahoga Valley National Park is just south of Cleveland and close to three interstates.  Despite the proximity to noise and people, the place is quiet, and there are many miles of trails.  I chose the Towpath Trail out of Boston, walking it for about 5 miles and back.  There is a lot of bicycle use, and the trail is popular with runners, too.  There is a river, several large ponds, some marsh, and old locks along the trail.  An old paper mill is there as well.

For those wishing to do a one way hike, shuttle service exists for some of the trails.

There is a small store run by volunteers in Boston; I did not go to other parts, deciding to eat and then walk where I was.  There are many interconnecting trails, and for mountain and even road bikers, this would be a delightful place to be.  For runners, walkers and picnickers, this is a lovely place.

River view and Highway 8 bridge

Typical trail view

IMG_3619 IMG_3618

Footbridge that was removed, sent to Elmira in 1992, restored, sent back, and rebuilt!

FIGHTING BATTLES SILENTLY

August 18, 2013

I was insulted by a friend recently, although he will never know.

I’ve never had a lot of friends; in the past 15 years, I’ve had even fewer.  When I rode the bike, I had several, but after I quit riding, I lost contact with them, for the only connection we had was the bike.

The friend to whom I refer once practiced medicine next door to my office.  He often brought his dogs to the office, and I took an afternoon break from seeing patients to go over and pet them for 10 minutes.  It was relaxing.  He retired just before I went back to graduate school, moving to another part of the country.  He sent Christmas e-cards and generic letters, telling his friends what he was doing.  We weren’t close, but I did consider him a friend.  Until yesterday.

He sent an e-mail to me, probably to everybody in his address book, about how the Senate almost voted to give to the UN the right to take away the right to own a gun.  I haven’t followed this debate closely, but I know enough to know that treaties require 2/3s approval, which this vote wasn’t even close.  If it is not a treaty, it won’t pass the House.  In any case, I fail to see how anybody who is thinking clearly thinks it is physically possible to confiscate three hundred million firearms in this country.

We can’t even pass a law strengthening background checks of who should have a firearm, despite overwhelming (85% of firearm owners in favor is overwhelming) support by the public.  Newtown has been and will be forgotten until December.  I knew it would be.

I have never touched a handgun and don’t plan to.  I shot skeet once, in 1976.  I have no use for firearms.  I also know that in my lifetime, we will never control their use.  Firearm control is like the Middle East peace process:  it comes up from time to time, somebody thinks something good will happen, and nothing ever does.

The e-mail annoyed me.  I started to write the sender, saying that politically hot issues should not be e-mailed to those whose political beliefs you do not know.  It is a good way to destroy a friendship, which he just had.  It was short and to the point.

Then I let the letter sit and deleted it 6 hours later. I have learned to wait before hitting “send”.  I pick and choose my battles.  I will go to the mat on some issues, like the climate, but a wise man doesn’t fight every battle.  I thought perhaps the sender might becoming demented.  He is old, and his recent Christmas cards have become extremely religious compared to prior years.  I haven’t seen him since 1998 and don’t know his current situation. I won’t change his mind and will only annoy or hurt him.  Why do that?

This isn’t the first friend I’ve lost over political issues.  One crossed a line that I considered important, and I decided not to contact her further.  I’m not going to change her mind, and silence is the best option, for it has many meanings.  Silence can hurt, but unlike hateful words, silence can be reversed.

A third individual, from Russia, whom I help learn English, explained Islam to me.  At first, I learned several facts I found interesting.  But later, she told me that I was of course going to go to hell.  I was more than a bit miffed and thought about stating to her my lack of belief in hell, except here on Earth. I could have asked what happens when two people, both believing their religion is “the proper way,” collide. It comprises a good deal of the world’s problems.

I remained silent a few days. She finally wrote me to see if I were upset. Yes, I was very upset, but I replied only that I was ready to teach her English. My silence had been my answer.  Maybe she understood what it meant; I doubt it.  Remaining silent in the face of hurtful comments, or comments that make one livid, is difficult.  I’m getting better at it.

I don’t ask people to read what I write here.  People log on, read my words and decide whether they want to read anything else I write. They choose.  I write, because it is how I discuss difficult or interesting issues. I hope my words will make people think about the world in a different way, I also hope my pictures will show people parts of the world that they are likely never to see.  Perhaps if people see how beautiful this world is, they will be happier and will work to protect it.

What I have learned, which took far too long, is that sometimes it is better to let others have the last word, especially a spouse.  For many, having the last word matters.

My silence makes it impossible for others to know what I think. That’s powerful.  For me, having the last action matters.

Even when it is silence.

MR. STERNER

August 14, 2013

Mr. Sterner might have been a reason I became a doctor.

Walt Sterner lived with his wife Sadie all year at Honeoye Lake, next to our summer cottage in the Finger Lakes.  He was old in 1956, when we bought the cottage, and Sadie was wheelchair-bound from arthritis.  Mr. Sterner loved her.

Mr. Sterner was an elder.  No, he didn’t have a college degree; I doubt he graduated from high school, but he was an elder.  He could fix anything, building and assembling most of the things at his house.  He had a metal track about 50 yards long that he could use to transfer his boat from the boathouse to the lake.  He later built a second ramp for Sadie to easily get in and out of the cottage.  Mr. Sterner had his priorities.  I think Sadie noted that, too.

Mr. Sterner liked dogs, especially ours.  He had a gruff voice, but when Vixie, our dog, was hungry, she didn’t hang around our place, she went next door.  She got something, and Mr. Sterner got to pet her.  I can still hear him one night saying, “Pretty slim pickins’, Vicki.”

Mr. Sterner didn’t suffer fools gladly.  He never showed off his weapons, although I know he had a few somewhere.  One day he walked over to our place with his shuffling gait, blue work overalls, smoking his pipe, and started complaining about the kids down the way making too much noise the prior Saturday night.

“They do that again, and I’m gonna get my goddam thirty thirty.”

Nowadays, you could get arrested for saying that sort of stuff.  Mr. Sterner had no plans to kill anybody.  He was just venting, although I bet if somebody broke in, the muzzle of his “thirty thirty” would have been venting smoke.

My mother baked a cherry pie one week and took it over to the pair.  Mr. Sterner looked at the pie, cut a piece, and said, “Where’d you get the cherries, Ruth?”  For decades, that line was never forgotten at my house, used when something new was made by my mother.  I haven’t seen my brothers in years, but if I quoted that line to them, they would immediately know what I was talking about.

One autumn weekend, my father took me on a trip up into the Bristol Hills near the cottage.  We went to a slaughterhouse, where Mr. Sterner worked.  To most kids, this would have been pretty gross.  I was fascinated by what I saw, when I looked at the carcasses.  I don’t remember much of who said what, but Mr. Sterner and my father gave me a good instruction in anatomy that day.  I was absolutely entranced, and it is probably no coincidence that a quarter a century later, I was teaching neuroanatomy to medical students.

There was nothing false about the man.  What you saw was what you got.  He was an elder, and I always called him Mr. Sterner, as I still do.  I suspect I could have called him Walt.  It wasn’t right, however, and it never once dawned on me to do it.  A half century later, I still can’t call the chairman of neurology, who trained me, by his first name, even though I’m 64, he’s 87, and I’ve known him for 36 years.  I doubt he would care, but it just wouldn’t be right.  That’s one way you know somebody is an elder–at least in my generation.

During what was my father’s final illness, at one point he needed a Chest X-Ray.  The technician kept referring to my father as “Buddy.”  I was infuriated but remained silent.  My father, Dr. Paul E. Smith, at the time nearly 92 and mentally sound, wrote two science books that sold more than a million copies each in the 1950s, when a million was a lot, and were the mainstay for science education in many schools. A lot of people would learn a lot if they read those books even today.  Dad worked his way up the educational ladder, from science teacher to principal, assistant superintendent, and superintendent of schools in 3 cities, finishing as an Assistant Dean at a College of Education.  He traveled the world.  He could fix cars and taught me how to change plugs and points.  He raised 3 sons, spent the War in Brazil educating pilots who flew to Dakar, and learned Portuguese. When he was 78, we did a canoe trip together.  Dad still knew the Latin name for a White Pine (pinus strobus).  I was impressed.  He was an elder.  He should have been called Mr. Smith, Dr. Smith, or Sir.

Not “buddy.”

When you are in the presence of an elder, be it a gruff farmer from rural New York State with minimal formal education, or a chairman of neurology at a major university, you call them Mr. or Dr.  Nowadays, many of the young call everybody by their first names.  That’s not only impolite, it is failure to recognize one may be in the presence of an elder.

Elders have seen and done a lot, but they also know what mistakes they’ve made.  In short, they have a great deal to offer to those who will only listen.  If an older person is listening carefully to you and asking questions, you may be talking to an elder.  Be sure to open your ears and close your mouth, too.  Be patient, because many elders think a lot before they speak.  They’ve learned that thinking before speaking is often valuable.  When an elder begins to speak, you will know you are in the presence of somebody special.

I’ve been fortunate over the years to have seen and done many things.  What I don’t know is whether I will become an elder in my society.  I can’t imagine a better way to grow old than to be an elder.

Title Page

This page is as informative today as it was then.

REMEMBERING PRINEVILLE AND 30 MILE

August 1, 2013

The Yarnell Hill fire that killed 19 Granite Mountain Hotshots from Arizona has already been blamed on “enviros”, like the 2011 Pagami Creek Fire in my favorite area of the Boundary Waters.  I don’t like the word “enviros,” and I am deeply disturbed how charged words end up in the vernacular, because the side who opposes my views keeps repeating them.  That’s how we got “Obama Care,” “death panels,” and “activist judges.”  For the record, it is the Affordable Health Care Act, and there is a lot of evidence to support the notion that the conservative side of the Supreme Court is activist, not the liberal.  Repetition does not always increase validity.  But back to Yarnell Hill.

Had the area been logged “appropriately,” some said, there would have been no fire.  Logging=jobs.  Jobs=money.  Money=things and kids.  Lots of kids.  Too many kids for the jobs available and for the carrying capacity of the world.  We think the world won’t change.  But it does. Email and online banking have hurt the post office.  Our big steel and copper industries are now small.  No longer are there well paying jobs for people coming out of high school.  Newspapers are in trouble.  The Grand Banks fisheries collapsed.  What happened to record and book stores?  I could extend the list; all these industries have had to change or disappear.

The world has changed, and the forests have, too; in part, because we put out natural fires, because of insects, and because of climate change, which affects the environment, including parasitic beetles.

Since I am an environmentalist, a so-called tree hugger (which I literally am), I am going to play the “blame game” here, since many of my detractors are not called out on their boorish behavior, counting on the rest of us to have been brought up well by our mothers to remain silent.

How dare you blame me and my beliefs for the deaths of the firefighters!!  We haven’t even had the investigation completed yet, but I will bet any amount of money there will be recommendations made that are going to anger a lot of people.  That is all I will say about my predictions.  I have a decent idea of why this occurred, but the investigation will tell me a lot more, some of which will be consistent with what I think, some of which will not.  But rather than wait for the investigation, some wish to blast the environmentalists, so we can mine, cut, hack, and destroy the Earth in the name of money….perhaps in the name of some sort of Deity, too.

Some of the fault was done in the name of what we once thought was good. The Smokey the Bear mindset convinced at least two generations of people that all fire in wild country is bad. Human caused fires are bad, but if they can be caused by humans, they can be caused by lightning, too.  The media will refer to “land destroyed by fire”.  In 1989, we built in the Sonoita grasslands, south of Tucson.  During the building, a 300 acre grass fire burned over all our property.  The house was scorched but hardly damaged.  When I saw the scorched land, I said to myself, “This will take a long time to come back.”  Six weeks later—SIX WEEKS–there was fresh grass, it was brilliant green, and it was home again to animals.

In 2005, on a solo canoe trip to Canada’s Quetico Provincial Park, I walked on a portage where the Bird Lake Fire burned 10 years previously.  I saw thousands of jack pine trees, all the same age, over this area.  Not all will survive.  Some will, others will die or be stunted.  Jack pine cones need fire to sprout.  This will be a big, shady jack pine forest in 40 years.  I won’t live to see it, but it will be there.  Natural fire clears and cleans the wilderness.  I haven’t been back to Yellowstone since the fires of 1988, but those who have know the positive changes it has had on wildlife and the ecosystem in general.  Remember what we all thought in 1988?

How dare you use the deaths of the firefighters as a reason to log the forests!  What could be logged, where they died?  Why do we allow houses to be built in these fire prone areas?  Why should young men and women put their lives at risk to save property?  If “Prineville” and “30 Mile” don’t ring a bell with you, will “Yarnell Hill” mean anything in 2025?  Prineville, Oregon, was the town where the hotshots came from, who died at South Canyon in 1994.  Thirty miles north of Winthrop, Washington, in 2001, the 30 Mile fire killed four young men and women.  The former had at least 20 rules violated; the latter was a tragedy that could have been prevented by not fighting it in the first place, and a concatenation of mistakes.  Easy in hindsight?  Sure.  Before?  Perhaps.  Listen to the video and draw your own conclusions.

Let the investigation proceed.  Afterwards, I would welcome a national debate on how we should manage our forests, except the boors will shout down everybody else and refuse to consider anything other than their ideas.  Can we debate the known science?  Can we honor the memory of these 37 young men and women and all the others who were killed or maimed by learning what to fight, what not to fight, when to fight it, how to fight it, and when to step back?

THE LADY IN THE STYLISH BOOTS

July 29, 2013

“Oh, those damned government regulations.”

I looked towards the voice, that of a fortyish woman, with stylish boots, dyed blonde hair, and a southern accent, who was talking to a park ranger at Katmai, 400 km southwest from Anchorage, and a long way from any part of the lower 49.

I almost let her have it, because rangers have to be nice, I don’t. I’m an elder in my society, and I was a lot more in my environment than she was.  I was wearing boots that had walked the over peaks in the Brooks Range, in Kobuk Valley’s sand dunes, both above the Arctic Circle, in Alaskan rivers, and on tussocks and ice.  Hers had probably just spent their first time on a dirt trail.

At Katmai, there are two viewing platforms at Brooks Falls, the lower, where one can go as long as one wishes without waiting or time limits, and an upper, where 40 people are limited to one hour, then have to get into line again for another hour, should they wish to see more.

Brown bears at Brooks Falls, Katmai NP, Alaska

There is a question, and I think a good one, whether we should be having people view the bears in the Brooks River feeding on salmon.  We don’t know what effect we are having on the bears.  Perhaps none.  Perhaps a lot.  Katmai is pretty enough without having to see the bears close up, but most go to see the bears.

The upper platform, next to the falls, has more fish, and that is where the males, and the big ones, congregate, so people want to go there.  Forty are plenty.  Put 50 or 60 there, and the last 20 aren’t going to see much.  I waited for 20 minutes when I arrived, spent an hour at the upper falls, left, got back on the list again, went to the downstream viewing area a second time, skipped lunch, and waited my turn to go to the upper falls.

The downstream viewing was great.  I saw a bear sleeping in the mud on the other side of the river and pointed him out to others.  A bear ran right under the walkway with a salmon, off into the woods to eat it.  There weren’t many people talking, and within 45 minutes, I was back at the upper falls.  That wasn’t a long wait.

Bear napping in mud, Brooks River, Katmai NP

Bear taking salmon into woods

That second time was special.  I saw a boar chase a cub up a tree.  When the boar left, the mother came with two more cubs and soon all 3 cubs were in the tree.  Later, another sow with spring cubs, much smaller, appeared.  The whole time, several bears were fishing the river.  I had a good time and as I left the check-in station, I heard the woman complain.

Sow with her 3 cubs.

I almost let her have it. But being an elder means having wisdom, and I knew I would be more emotional than wise if I said anything to the woman wearing the stylish boots.

I would have started with the failure to properly regulate flights properly over another national park: the Grand Canyon.  On 18 June 1986, a helicopter and a fixed wing collided over Tuna Creek, killing 25, many of whom were Dutch tourists, who likely burned to death before they hit the ground.  The FAA stepped in.

I would then have asked how much better off we might be today had we regulated the financial industry, so that people who almost took down the world’s economy, which is still struggling years later, got bonuses that themselves were in the top 0.5% of US income.

I might have asked her to imagine Katmai as a private park with a bus to the viewing platforms, so people wouldn’t have to walk 1.2 miles, selling tourists a salmon, then putting them on a tram over the falls, so people could look down and drop salmon to the bears, getting that “special” picture to post on their wall.

Ten years ago, during bear hunting season, many people went into Lake Two in the Boundary Waters without permits.  It’s an easy lake to get to, and surprise–people don’t always regulate themselves.  When my wife and I tried to camp there, with a permit, coming the other way, we were tired, disappointed, and angry that the lake was full.  We had to paddle a lot further before camping.  Afterwards, rangers were posted at the entry point to ensure people had permits.  Regulations make it possible for me to have my rights protected, too.  Even with rules, parks get trashed; without them, I shudder to think what would happen.

She probably would have screamed at me if I asked when a person’s right to own a firearm interfered with my right to be safe at my local Safeway, where Gabby Giffords was shot. Yes, I know, guns don’t kill people, people kill people, because if they are angry, it is easy to move a finger without thinking of the consequences.  Using a knife or a fist makes it a lot more personal, risky to the attacker, and requires enough time where maybe somebody can think “I shouldn’t do this,’ which is what I did before telling the woman in stylish boots what I thought of her.

All but forgotten now, the memorial to the 6 killed and 19 wounded in Tucson. Just a question: When was the last time you heard “Newtown”?

I’d like to know what the lady would think of regulating food quality and safety, something a good looking congressional candidate from my district wanted to do away with, since he had never had seen a case of typhoid fever or hepatitis, or a child die of shigella or salmonella.  That candidate scared the daylights out of me and missed winning the seat by 4,000 votes, because people were angry about the Affordable Care Act, many of whom were on Medicare or military retirees, ironically receiving government funded medical care.

No, lady, we regulate our public lands, because if we don’t, they will be lost for all time and be turned into money makers for a few.  The forests will be cut, the land mined, the water ruined, the silence gone, the animals gunned down.  I’d conclude with: “What about my rights and the rights of those who have yet to be born?”

I wonder whether she would kick me with those stylish boots.  Or think.

KATMAI

July 26, 2013

Katmai National Park is for bear viewing and the valley of the 10,000 smokes.  I didn’t see the latter, but I did get to the former, and the bear viewing was spectacular.  Located about 220 nm SW of Anchorage, it is reached by float plane, with about an hour and a half ride over rather spectacular scenery.

Scenery on flight to Katmai

One arrives at Brooks Lake, and gets off the float plane on the floats.  There is a short walk to the visitor center, where the ranger talks, and there is a good 10 minute video on dealing with bears.  These are not the same behaved bears as in the Brooks Range, who have likely never encountered people.  These bears are near people, but so long as people stay on walkways, there shouldn’t be much of a problem.  The bridge over the Brooks River can be closed if there are bears in the vicinity, however, and bears are unpredictable.

The area for viewing has a lower and an upper platform.  The downriver or lower platform is open without waiting, and the smaller bears tend to congregate there.  The upper platform has room for 40, and one may stay no longer than an hour.  However, after one leaves, they may immediately put their name on the list to go back.  I did just that and spent an enjoyable 45 minutes at the lower platform seeing one bear sleeping in mud and another carrying his prize catch back into the woods.

Brown bear sleeping in mud.

Look what I caught!

The upper platform has a great view of the falls and bears will walk under the platform.

Some of the bears at the upper falls viewing area.

Fishing from the top.

The highlight was a cub chased up a tree by a big boar, who barely missed him.  Young bears until 3-4 years of age can climb, but older bears fuse joints necessary to climb and no longer can.  After awhile, the boar left and the sow returned with 2 siblings, sending them up the tree as well.

\ Literally climbing for his life

The reason.

Mom at bottom.

Two.

The third.

Mom with spring cubs.

The three cubs did come down from the tree, Mom got them a salmon from upriver, and they disappeared into the woods.  It is difficult to know how many will survive.  There is a lot of food, but there is also a lot of predation.  The spring cubs got a much later start, and it will be less easy for them.

We don’t know the effect of human visitation has on the bears.  Hopefully, it is not significant.  The day was spectacular, and this is a park I definitely want to see again.

DREAMS

July 25, 2013

I was in the Anchorage airport, late one night on my way home from my tenth trip to “The Great Land.” I stopped in the men’s room, and before I saw the pair, I recognized the smell that to me characterizes one thing: “we’ve just come out of the woods.”

It’s a difficult odor to describe.  It is woodsmoke plus something more.  Many people would just say the person needs a bath, and they wouldn’t be wrong.  But in the woods, we neither notice the smell nor particularly want a bath.  I can attest to that with a great deal of experience.  It is when one comes out of the woods that one notices the odor and really wants a shower.

As I washed my hands and turned from the sink, I accidentally brushed the pack one was carrying.  He apologized.

“Been there a lot,” I replied.  While I’m shy, I knew these young men were kindred spirits.  “Where did you guys go?” I asked.  They knew I wasn’t talking about cities but wild country.  I wasn’t going to hear “Juneau” but the Chilkoot, not “Homer” but “The Kenai”.

We started to talk.  The pair was young, at least 35 years younger than I, and this was their first trip to Alaska, where they spent 2 weeks in Denali and the Kenai.  They had wanted to do this trip now, while they could, because their lives were going to be busy in the coming years.  They did it.

Been there, too.  I told them about my 5 trips to the Brooks Range, and their eyes showed a gaze I’ve seen many times, and which I have shown others. It’s a far away gaze of longing, of thinking about wild country, of rivers nobody down here has ever heard of, like Kongakut, Aichilik, Nigu, Itchilik, Kobuk or Noatak.  It’s mountains and remote valleys.  It’s slogging through tussocks, in rivers, in swamps, in bear country.  It’s aufeis hiking and bugs in June, blueberries in July, rain and autumn colors in August.  It’s the most difficult country to hike that anybody can imagine, and it is also the most beautiful.  It is a country that kicks one’s butt, until finally one accepts it with the simple words, “It’s Alaska.”  Everybody up here understands that.

Normally, I don’t talk much to strangers, but when I’ve been out the bush for awhile, I find myself pretty talkative.  These guys were me, 35 years ago.  Then, my dreams took me to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, every year, to get into the backcountry, away from people, civilization, only me and the wild lakes and rivers.  I explored that country until I knew it as well as my home town.  Maybe better.  I sure loved it more.  Always will.

It was much later that I discovered Alaska.  Oh, I did the Chilkoot Trail in ’84, the Nahanni the following year and the Chilkoot and the upper Yukon in ’87, but I didn’t camp above the Arctic Circle until 20 years later.  By then, I knew if I didn’t start to make my dreams come true, they never would.  I hiked to the Arrigetch Peaks in Gates of the Arctic National Park, and then decided I’d come back to see ANWR.  I thought once to ANWR would be enough, but when Christmas came I got a letter from the guide saying he planned a real special ANWR trip the following year.  I had to do that one, of course, because I had the longing in my eyes. I could see the Dall Sheep and Caribou, a river I knew would be special, so I accepted and did the trip.  Tough? Very.  Weather issues?  Plenty.  But we saw wildlife I couldn’t believe, and I came out of there saying I had seen the ANWR I wanted to.

Except I still haven’t.  Probably never will, either.  I did two more trips into the Gates, one combining backpacking with a paddling.  We saw a dozen bears, four of whom walked blithely through our campsite one night. Alaska.

I still want to see the Sheenjek Drainage in ANWR.  I would be 65 if I did it, but I think I can. A guide-friend is willing, and I know a pilot who would get us to the jumping off point.  No question that we could do this trip.  When I think about it, I know I have the look in my eyes those young men had.  Age  doesn’t destroy that look.

I didn’t tell the pair to follow their dreams, as I have tried to follow mine.  They didn’t need me to say anything; they were already dreaming.  I could see it in their eyes.  They didn’t know how they were going to get up here again, where they would go, or what they would do, but they were going to do it.

They will see the Brooks Range, ANWR and deal with all the issues Alaska throws at those who go into the bush.  They will come out of the country filthy again, smelling, but not of woodsmoke, because they will have been north of the treeline, where night doesn’t exist in summer.  They will again take the redeye to Seattle or the Bay Area, where they live, thrilled to have done the trip, and already planning the next one.  They would have had adventures I would be jealous of, but only a little.

No, the two needed no encouragement to come back. Had I shown them my pictures of the Arrigetch, the Aichilik, or the Noatak, they might have cancelled their flight and stayed.  Some people do that.

To the wife of one of them, should either some day be married, I apologize.  I just happened to run into a fellow dreamer, somebody who reminded me of myself, and planted a few more dreams in his head.

Let him go to the Far North.  He has to do it. He will come back better for it.

But he will want to go the following year.

And maybe some day he will be 64, in a men’s room in an airport, talking to a 30 year-old who has just finished his first backpacking trip in Alaska…..

2 year-old griz on the Noatak. Out of focus because my hands were shaking. Distance: 25 meters. Anything between us? Air

Bull caribou, Noatak.

The Maidens, part of the Arrigetch Peaks, Gates of the Arctic National Park.

Dall Sheep, ANWR, Upper Aichilik River drainage.

LIKE LOCUSTS DESCENDING ON A FIELD OF WHEAT

July 23, 2013

Forty years ago, I was sold a $50,000 Whole Life insurance policy that cost me $750 a year in premiums.  When I cashed it out last year, it was worth about $84,000.  This is a rate of return well below 2%, and I paid the premium for several years.  It was a bad investment.  It was a good deal for the broker.

Back then, I didn’t know how to say no.  I was a first year medical student.  Life insurance salesmen descended on medical students like locusts on a wheat field, asking each one to give a couple other names of fellow students.  I refused to do that. Credit card companies in 1975 wouldn’t give me a card, when I became a physician (no way students ever got credit cards back then), because I was only an intern earning $10,000 a year.

I would have been much better off buying a 20-year $1 million term policy that I could afford. Every young married couple should have term insurance.  This is a time when people are usually healthy, their incomes are low, their debts are high, they may have children, and sudden death can devastate the survivors.   They can afford $500,000 term policies.  A whole life policy of that size is unaffordable.

Insurance salesman, however, make more money selling whole life policies, so that is why I got one.  It was an introduction to the world of people acting in their own self-interest. Having a fiduciary responsibility to a client means one does what is best for the client, not what is best for the provider’s income. As a physician, I had a fiduciary responsibility to do what was best for my patients, not me.  It meant that I got up at 2 or 3 a.m. to treat a drunk who had fallen, or a guy who had gone off his motorcycle and wasn’t wearing a helmet.  I was spat upon, had to hold a drunk still in a CT scanner, where the scans took a half hour to do, not a few seconds, yelled at, often not paid, but  able to be sued if I screwed up.  The next day, I was exhausted and functioned at a level of being legally drunk. Back then, in the “good old days,” doctors worked while exhausted.  I said at the time it was wrong, and I was slammed by my partners for saying so, because good doctors functioned well for 36 hours straight.  Research long ago showed that notion to be false.

Over the years, I have made many financial and medical mistakes:  I invested in a few REITs (Real Estate Investment Trusts), but not many.  I had suspicions that something was amiss in 2007, but I listened to my financial adviser explain them away.  He gave me an article by a Wharton professor, who ensured the reader that 2008 would be a great year. Financial advisors cannot be given carte blanche. I was executor of my father’s estate, and half of the legal advice I received was wrong.  Even the lawyers can’t understand our financial system, which is in my view deliberately made complex.

Credit card debt is a major problem and a classic example of how lack of regulation allowed banks to do well at the literal expense of their customers.  I pay the balance off every month.  Always. By doing so, I get an interest free loan from the bank.  Credit card debt has astronomical interest rates that only recently have been made public.  Many think that making the minimum payment on a credit card is all they need to do.  It is not.  The interest is charged on the full amount.

A brief comment on rate of return.  One will hear that a security has a 4% rate of return.  That rate does not include fees to buy and sell the security, nor does it include the taxes one pays on the gains.  It isn’t dishonest for the financial community to do so, but it isn’t realistic, either.  If I make $1000 on a stock but pay $400 in taxes and $50 in fees, I haven’t made $1000; I have made $550.  My wife and I had a house in rural Arizona.  We sold it for double of what it cost to build it, but after fees on both ends and capital gains taxes, over 20 years our rate of return was 1.8%.  That is a real rate of return:  money we had.  The doubling was simply a number, before costs of selling and taxes were factored in.   I take my net worth and multiply it by 70%, and that is my real net worth, because selling everything will be taxed.

I recently watched a story on Suze Orman about a 69 year-old woman, whose husband’s pension died with him.  She had a house underwater in Florida, and she was nearly destitute.  Indeed, she was living on social security, as do many Americans.  What happens to them if we “privatize it”?  Like the insurance agents descending on medical students, financial experts will descend upon the elderly.  Good looks and saying what people want to hear trump truth and fiduciary responsibility for the buyer’s best interests. A lot of elderly can’t understand finances and money, don’t think clearly, and are going to get burned.

I made many financial mistakes, and I teach math.  We don’t value math teaching and teachers;  the financial industry exists to do three things very well:  take your money in the form of high fees, move it around electronically, and generate paper.  Research has shown little value to society to moving money, compared to, say–a teacher.  I receive thousands of pages of financial paper annually (I sampled and made inferences), most of which are not understandable. I don’t have the time to read it.  Can you imagine how a poorly educated 80 year-old will handle it?  The few million words I get basically can be summarized with 12:  “you might lose all your money and we are not at fault.” Every other week, I receive a class action lawsuit notification about some company, often 4-5 copies, each 20 or so pages.   I have to decide whether to throw it away or try to research when I bought the stock and how long I held it.  I used to look up the information, but when the suit was settled in my favor, I got vouchers for something the company made.  I throw this stuff away now.  At least I can recycle it.

If I, a mathematician, who can tell you right away what the doubling, and tripling time of money is for a given interest rate is (divide the interest rate into 72, and 110 respectively, and the quotient is the number of years), cannot understand much of American finance, what chance does an elderly woman who has just been widowed have?  Or a young person out of school?  Mortgages should require a 20% downpayment and consume no more than 1/3 your income.  You don’t throw away money on rent; you have somebody else taking care of things that break, and you can leave when you want to.

Many live only on Social Security, never its intention, but now their only choice.  Many in Congress would like to destroy it and privatize Medicare, because the “market” will do a better job.  In Ayn Rand’s mythical world, the market does well.  In the real world of greed and grab, birth defects, viruses, auto accidents–heck, appendicitis–the market needs regulation, which it isn’t getting.  The “market makers” almost took down the world’s economy in 2008.  Many of them got bonuses worth more than I made in my lifetime for doing it, and I practiced medicine. Five years later, we still are not back to where we should be, many will never recover, and we are talking about removing the safety nets from those who need it the most.

While the paper continues to flow into my mailbox.